RECOMMENDED BOOKS ON PROPAGATION

I posted this on our Bonsai Club website as I intend to do an article on seed sowing and propagation.

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Plant Propagation – Principles and Practice – Hudson T. Hartman & Dale E. Kester

Propagation of Plants – M. G. Kains & L. M. McQuesten

Plant Propagation in Pictures – Montague Free

Grafters’ Handbook - R. J. Garner

Parks Success With Seeds – Ann Reilly

Secrets of Plant Propagation – Lewis Hill

Propagation of Temperate-Zone Fruit Plants - Division of Agricultural Sciences, University of California leaflet 21103. (1979) There are many newer and updated leaflets.

At some later date I will do an article on seed sowing as their are so many contradiction opinions. Reminding me that "Old nurserymen never die, they simply go to seed."

Herb Senft

Hardiness of Japanese and Korean Maples

ZONE HARDINESS and CLIMATE ZONES

1. Hardiness - Japanese Maples are supposed to be hardy to Zone 5, -20 F according to J.D. Vertrees. (I question that, but I do recommend the book!) It depends on many factors including the age of the plant.

2. Variety - Some Maple varieties are hardier than others. Japonicas are supposed to be cold hardy, as are Pseudosieboldianum (Korean Maple). A. Pseudosieboldianum is rated as hardy to Zone 4 (-40), but it is hard to find and has (as I know it) only one named cultivar. It is a columnar form. I only have a few of those. (The same caveat applies, ALL young plants need winter protection.)

3. Is the plant in the ground or in a container? A container grown plant may be hardy in a Zone 6 or 7 but not in a Zone 5-4. Root Stock - Since almost all named Japanese Maples are grafted, the top (depending on variety) may be hardier but the Root Stock is almost always an Acer palmatum seedling. Root Stock plants are seed grown and so hardiness of the under stock would vary. Mulching would therefore be a good idea.

4. Site conditions - Zone microclimates play distinct havoc with stated hardiness statistics. This would include slope exposure, frost drainage, fluctuation of daily temperatures. In Denver, it might get to 10 below and climb on a sunny day to 70. The shaded side stays frozen and the south facing bark will rapidly thaw. This causes splits in the trunk and often the death of the tree. This applies to the Pacific Northwest as well, explaining the need of shade cloth or protective lath.

5. Length of your cold snap, snow cover etc. The worst combination would be very cold temperatures with no snow cover. Equally of concern would be wildly varying weather conditions. One year I had three major arctic expresses with warming periods between. I was in a Zone 6 zone and it went to 7 below with no snow cover and bright sun. All the worst combinations. The Nursery was toast. So would be most potted bonsai.

6. Suggested mitigations: Mulch, provide wind protection, pile snow up against the trunk and perhaps use anti-desiccant sprays, etc All the above factors heavily as to how much damage is done by these temps. Read snow is really GOOD! The best news is that we usually do not have a prolonged period of such ultra-cold temps. This is a major factor in the survival of the trees and how much damage they may receive.. Further wet weather may yet exacerbate the winter damaged root conditions; so protect the plants from further excessive moisture until new growth has begun.

'7. Oxygen plus' might be one mitigating commercial chemical that might help recover some root-damaged plants. Having a dried out hose available to a frost free spigot is another helpful tool. Spraying the frozen trees (lightly) will do much to mitigate damaging thawing – much as they do in the citrus fields. Bring the hose back in and allow it to drain, should you need it again.

8. Always brush snow carefully off your trees as the accumulations might worsen, freeze and accumulate more. … breaking limbs.

How to kill Moles

Moles, Pocket Gophers and Mt. Beavers – How to kill them?

In the Pacific Northwest, we also have Mt. Beavers, and not only do they act like tree climbing marmots, these big toothed gophers climb trees and can fall rhododendrons, holly ... you name it. They even ate a poisoness Yew.

I tried using popane fuel to inject into the holes, poisons what not. Nothing worked. Oh yes, one tosses in a match to blow the hole up! Now I had a more inventive friend of mine, a former railroad engineer and he suggested that adding oxygen to the mix could increase the explosive power. He then explained how Acetylene was far better then propane.

So with this edit we dragged the welding tanks to the holes and topped them up. Tossed in the match ... and the whole damn garden erupted like Vesuvius. I never did that again.

Now Peta and animal rights groups will probably fire bomb my home for this inexpensive but working solution for moles. Use a deep dibble stick to drill a hole to the gopher/mole hole and add a Tbl. of LYE, (Drano) throw in a Juicy fruit gum and I guarantee you results. Cover the hole with dirt or it won't work. Cruel Yes, but so are the blood thinners in the poisons ... and they can work their way into the food chain. No other answers!

COMMENT I received on the above “Wow, you are quite the environmentalist.”

Thanks. I appreciate that! :-)

One does what one can. When one is hired to take care of a garden and finds 100 plus molehills sorta ruining the picture, environmentalism goes out the window.

Moles actually are a good indicator of the health of the soil and the prescence of food, worms, root weevils and lawn grubs.

Sadly the lawn owner does not appreciate their beneficial efforts, nor do I see a landscape advantage in having these earthy upheavals in my garden plan. I dare say my further article on my dealings with them would shock you.

Actually, I am an environmentalist and so is Wayne, the guy with the acetylene tank, but sometimes one just snaps. One other thing, these runs invite other tenants as well -- some that can eat or damage the plants or bulbs. Read mice, voles and rats ... and there goes the neighborhood..

Now on mice I do have an organic treatment. Simply leave a (covered-rain proof) supply of instant-flaked potatoes out. Provide a basin of water nearby. The mice will eat the flakes, drink the water and EXPAND! No side affect to the raptors or other critters who will find the stuffed dead mice. Much better than the blood thinner baits that can go into the food chain!

I still haven’t put out the deer traps yet
Such a nice guy am I!

Weather Zone maps and your gardens climate

One of those winters!

Having just discussed a weather map (Zone what) issue I ended up by commenting -- ALWAYS consider the plants originating habitat. My Zone 7 in the Pacific Northwest is not the same as the Zone 7 in Oklahoma: neither in the length of the cold or the humidity or lack thereof. Add snowfall coverage and winter colds are mitigated. Then again ... what is your SUMMER like? Gunnera comes from the moist highland mountains of S. America and does well here in the Pacific Northwest. It probably will not do well in the Mid-West.

On eBay someone asked for a better climate zone map. I too would like that, but I suspect it simply doesn't exist. Zone maps are for regions and do not include altitude, length of winter temperatures, slope exposure, sun, wind etc. My Zone 7 plantings in Clallam Co. WA are mostly because of altitude, secondarily because of tree shade. Our Zn 7 has a winter beginning in Dec. and lasting until mid Feb., usually it relaxes after that. All told some 2.5 months, sometimes three.

The same Zone 7 in Oklahoma might have two extra months of Zone 7 weather. I suspect the best answer is to address the regional Farm bureau, your AG. extension office, or some good Nursery. Where I live, there would be are four totally different climate zones in just 15 miles.

Some variations are due to precipitation, the altitude or in my case the proximity to the moderating effects of the Ocean. No govt. map can provide such a detailed "goggle" footprint of climate zones.

One customer of mine said it best. She was in her 70's and commented on my remark to different climate zones in our own properties. She said, I just took all my clothes off and stood in different places in the garden. I loved it!:-)

My own property has at least a five to ten degree difference in temperature depending on sun exposure, wind etc. One other thing to mention: the variation of day temperatures. Weather maps generally work on the lows, creating these Zone maps. They neglect to factor in day heat degrees. Denver could be 20 in the morning and rise to 75 in the afternoon. The back trunks of trees will be frozen, while the south side warms up and the trunk splits between ... often causing the plant to die.

Wine Grapes for Western Washington

After researching Low Grow Degree Day (1600 GDD) grape varietals I was hired to plant a small vinyard here in Sequim WA. I took cuttings of the plantings and have the following ungrafted grapes. They are one gallon size and are available to sell. There are four white wine grapes and the reds will be available for next year. These will only be sold to WA. buyers. 6.00 ea.

Wine grapes

White Wine Varietals German Siegerrebe -- A (Madeleine Angevine X Siegerrebe) cross. One of the earliest varieties to ripen. This variety makes an excellent fruity wine with spice and light fruit aromas. It has grown in Western WA for over 25 years and probably would be my first choice in any vineyard. Muller Thurgau -- is a white-blush wine that produces less fruit than most but is very vigorous vine and makes a deliciously sweet desert wine. Poundage of grapes per vine is less than most others. FRENCH Madeleine Angevine. This variety makes a fruity white wine with citrus aroma and a note of apricots. It is productive but is susceptible to fruit rot. This grape variety needs intense watching as the grapes mature. If successful it is beyond belief! Pinot Gris like Muller Thurgau this is a less productive variety, but makes for a great white fruity spicy wine. MIx or match, my own suggestion being that rows of 8 plants per variety is a minimum to give you anything of a yield to produce some gallon-age. The best varieties can yield up to 20 lbs. per vine (depending on climate, site and choice of cultivar) the low end of the scale can be only FIVE pounds of grapes per vine. Hence Muller Thurgau is often bottled in beer sized bottles for the same price of others. These REDS are available NEXT YEAR - contact me in the spring. Regent (Two years from now) A Sylvaner x with Mueller-Thurgau. This hybid tastes like a vinifera and is very disease resistant. Loose clusters make a very good red wine and its disease resistance makes this an ideal choice for the organic grower of for the home winemaker Dunkelfelder A very dark red juice that is used to blend with other wines. High acid content. A teinturier grape with VERY red juice, acid levels at harvest tend to be high. Potentially high sugar levels, but I doubt they will achieve this in our 1600 GDD (Growing degree days) I suspect its use will be as a blender -- possibly with Dornfelder. Dornfelder A vigorous vine that may actually tend to overproduce. Clusters should be thinned out. Sugar levels tend to be low and acid levels can drop fast just prior to harvest. Another good grape to blend with others. OTHERS Ortega (Two years from now) An early ripening white wine grape with high sugar levels and low acidity. This is a very promising new hybrid and is a gross between Muller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe -- both of are GREAT! Norwegian Muscat. I am very excited about this grapes prospects. I think that this will be an outstanding producer. This is a very early Muscat red grape with a unique flavor. Early ripening with large berries in big clusters. Excellent for eating and makes a fruity white wine..

You are bidding on a well established one gallon can, One plus year old plants.

I will ship ONLY to WA. addresses!

PLANTING INFO ...... Zones 8 and higher

• North America
• Height up to 6ft
• White and Red grapes
• Full sun Good exposure
• Cold hardy to zone 8
• Needs well drained sunny locations

HYPERLINKED USDA CLIMATE ZONE MAP

POISONOUS PLANTS

Both Dermal and Oral toxicity levels should be considered if potential for injury to the purchaser exists. I suggest a special rating should exist for those plants that have bright berries or seed pods that look edible. The laburnum, castor bean and skimmia come quickly to mind. In the case of the laburnum, by simply growing the less fruitful cultivar x waterei ‘Vossi’ near eliminates the risk. It rarely sets seeds.
Some of the risks are simply mitigated by properly deadheading spent flowers before they create seed. Lupinus as an example. For dermal toxicity wearing gloves will protect your hands – something this gardener rarely does.

Allergic skin reactions.
What is news to some people is that dermal reactions may sometimes take 24- 48 hours to appear. It is easy to remember and to avoid the nettle or poison ivy/sumac that appears suddenly, it is less easy to deal with allergic reactions that occur days later.
Some reactions also occur only if one comes into contact with the plant in sunlight—or are chemicals that make the skin very sensitive to sunlight.
Handle these plants with care!

Alstroemaria (Peruvian Lily) skin allergy
Leyland cypress Inhalation of smoke or contact with sap. (I have been there—am very allergic to some trees, especially in burning them. Allergy settles in my lungs!) Allergy
Daphne’s D Skin allergy
Dictamnus D Photodermatitis
Dieffenbachia D Skin and eye irritant
Echium Skin irritant
Euphorbia (spurges) sap is a skin irritant in daylight.
Primula obconica German primula D dermatitis
Ruta (Rue) D* Severe skin rashes if handled in sunlight. Skin damage can be permanent.

I have further noticed that some of these effects may be cumulative. My own allergic reactions have been in great part due to excess stupidity. After deadheading spent flowers in the spring and exposing myself to these plant irritants and winter molds that have accumulated on the stems … I then burnt them in piles.

Every spring I came down with lung specific allergy attacks. Burning cedar and cypress’s seem equally bad for this gardener.
Use caution when dealing with any plant you are allergic to!
I make note that this is a listing of some plants that have proven to be a problem to humans. Dogs and cats may have other issues, so please ask your Veterinarian about plant concerns for animals.

Oral Toxins Oral Toxins

O -poisonous. O very serious! D dermal

Aconitum (Monkshood) D O
Aesculus (Horse chestnut) O
Arum (Cuckoo plant) O *
Atropa bella donna (Deadly Nightshaide) O berries
Colchicum (Meadow saffron) O
Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley) O
Daphne lauereoloa and mezereum O berries
Datura O
Dieffenbachia (house plant) sap is toxic but usually poisoning occurs when the leaf is chewed. O
Digitalis (foxglove) O
Euonymus O attractive seedpods
Euphorbia O and probably D. Wear gloves when pruning.
Gaultheria mucronata (Pernettya) O Leaves, fruit and nectar are poisonous. berries
Gloriosa superba (Glory Lily) O* tuber looks like a sweet potato
Helleborus O
Ipomoea (morning glory) O* Seed pods
Iris O I suppose I would be most concerned with foetidissima because of its seed heads. Tubers are poisonous.
Laburnum O* Seed pods are the most worrisome potential for poisoning.
Lantana 0* berries are dangerous.
Lupinus (Lupin) O Seedpods are a risk. Large amounts may need to be eaten.
Nerium (Oleander) O* taste is bitter, and often causes vomiting.
Polygonatum (Solomon’s seal) O*
Prunus laurocerasus O All parts especially the seeds
Rhamus buckthorn O All parts. Berries
Ricinus communis (Castor Oil Plant) O* Highly toxic. This plant should not be sold!
Solanum species (Nightshade) OAll parts, leave and unripe berries. Berries can be fatal for children.
Taxus (Yew) O* All parts. Eating the seeds can be deadly!
Wisteria O. All parts especially the seeds and pods.

© by Herb Senft 2008